"By popular request", as the showbiz adverts say, I am posting my thoughts on carving a neckline as a "sticky", which will save me from
repeating myself, seeing that my several posts on this matter have disappeared into the mists of time. I would emphasize that these are only my personal
opinions and guidelines and that there are many other views on the matter, eg. whether necklines are needed at all, and if so, how high or low should they be
placed and how should the placement be determined.
Why a neckline?
The average man's beard can be divided into three sections: the hair on the face, the hair under the jaw, and the hair on the neck. Some guys' neck hair can finish on or just above the adam's apple, but for most others it extends much lower, sometimes even joining up with the chest hair.
Whether to leave the neck hair to grow naturally is a matter of personal taste and conviction. Those who like the "natural" look, or who grow long beards, or who are in occupations where personal appearance and presentation is of little importance, may well wish to leave their neck hair to grow. Religious reasons may also dictate that the whole beard should be grown. However, for many who grow short beards, or work in a business or corporate environment, there is a feeling that an overabundance of neck hair looks untidy and can unbalance a beard and give it a "bottom-heavy" look.
When to establish a neckline?
Received wisdom on this matter is that all the facial hair should be left to grow out for some weeks before a neckline is established. I disagree. I believe that for the majority of beard growers establishing a neckline early in the game - and by early I mean after 1 or 2 weeks' growth for the average guy's beard - has several advantages:
- It signals that you are growing a beard, not just being lazy.
- It gives the growing beard definition and alleviates the scruffy look.
- It is easier and less uncomfortable to shave out the neckline on short stubble rather than on longer hair.
- If a mistake should be made, and the neckline placed too high (which should not occur if the technique described below is carefully followed) then the period required for self-repair will be reduced.
General Principles.
The neckline should be placed on the soft part of the neck behind the jawbone. This holds good for the majority of styles except the chinstrap for which, especially in the case of narrow straps, the line can be placed on the bone.
Technique.
- Arm yourself with a manual razor containing, for preference, not more than two blades. I personally find it more difficult to carve a clean line with super-multibladed razors and use a Gillette Sensor Excel.
- Prepare the area to be shaved with hot water and a brushless shaving cream or gel. I like to use a clear non-foaming gel such as King of Shaves or Neutrogena since it enables you to see more clearly what you are doing.
- Stand in front of your mirror and raise your chin. Don't lean too far back as this will stretch the skin and may give you too high a line when your head is in its normal position.
- Place the razor on the lower part of your neck as if you were going to shave, but angle it so that the blades do not make contact with your skin.
- Slide the razor gently up your neck until it is brought to a natural halt by the head making contact with the back of your jawbone. Don't force it.
- When contact has been made re-angle the razor so that the blades touch your skin and shave downwards and only downwards.
- Repeat this process all the way round beneath your jaw including the hinge(which is where you will obtain a rounding-off effect).
This procedure, which uses the jawbone both as a barrier and a guide, will give you a line which follows the natural shape of your jawbone and ensure that the beard covers the bone. It should give the appearance of the beard "tucking in" under the jaw. How near or far from the bone you start to shave after you have made contact is a matter of personal choice. The important thing is that the jawbone is made to serve as both a barrier and guide. When viewed from below the line should have the appearance of an inverted "U" or "V".
One of the advantages of this technique is that it uses touch as well as sight. You feel with your razor where to place the line just as much as seeing it in the mirror. This removes the urge to juggle with two mirrors which is often the cause of disaster. Of course you can always use a second mirror to check up on what you have done, but you don't need to use it when actually shaving the neck.
If you don't feel fully confident before using this technique for the first time you can always give it a "dry run" with your razor without shaving anything. I suggested to one newbie that he did this and it seemed to have helped him to achieve a pretty good result.
In the early stages of growing a beard I usually recommend establishing the line fairly close behind the jawbone and then, if required, letting the line creep down as the beard lengthens. However, a high line may not suit everyone, especially those without a well defined jawline, in which case it is better to start shaving at a lower level.
I would again repeat that the above guidelines are only what I have found work for me and for many others to whom I have recommended them. There are plenty of other methods, string, bootlaces, neck creases, lines and curves etc etc. Take your pick.
wulff
Why a neckline?
The average man's beard can be divided into three sections: the hair on the face, the hair under the jaw, and the hair on the neck. Some guys' neck hair can finish on or just above the adam's apple, but for most others it extends much lower, sometimes even joining up with the chest hair.
Whether to leave the neck hair to grow naturally is a matter of personal taste and conviction. Those who like the "natural" look, or who grow long beards, or who are in occupations where personal appearance and presentation is of little importance, may well wish to leave their neck hair to grow. Religious reasons may also dictate that the whole beard should be grown. However, for many who grow short beards, or work in a business or corporate environment, there is a feeling that an overabundance of neck hair looks untidy and can unbalance a beard and give it a "bottom-heavy" look.
When to establish a neckline?
Received wisdom on this matter is that all the facial hair should be left to grow out for some weeks before a neckline is established. I disagree. I believe that for the majority of beard growers establishing a neckline early in the game - and by early I mean after 1 or 2 weeks' growth for the average guy's beard - has several advantages:
- It signals that you are growing a beard, not just being lazy.
- It gives the growing beard definition and alleviates the scruffy look.
- It is easier and less uncomfortable to shave out the neckline on short stubble rather than on longer hair.
- If a mistake should be made, and the neckline placed too high (which should not occur if the technique described below is carefully followed) then the period required for self-repair will be reduced.
General Principles.
The neckline should be placed on the soft part of the neck behind the jawbone. This holds good for the majority of styles except the chinstrap for which, especially in the case of narrow straps, the line can be placed on the bone.
Technique.
- Arm yourself with a manual razor containing, for preference, not more than two blades. I personally find it more difficult to carve a clean line with super-multibladed razors and use a Gillette Sensor Excel.
- Prepare the area to be shaved with hot water and a brushless shaving cream or gel. I like to use a clear non-foaming gel such as King of Shaves or Neutrogena since it enables you to see more clearly what you are doing.
- Stand in front of your mirror and raise your chin. Don't lean too far back as this will stretch the skin and may give you too high a line when your head is in its normal position.
- Place the razor on the lower part of your neck as if you were going to shave, but angle it so that the blades do not make contact with your skin.
- Slide the razor gently up your neck until it is brought to a natural halt by the head making contact with the back of your jawbone. Don't force it.
- When contact has been made re-angle the razor so that the blades touch your skin and shave downwards and only downwards.
- Repeat this process all the way round beneath your jaw including the hinge(which is where you will obtain a rounding-off effect).
This procedure, which uses the jawbone both as a barrier and a guide, will give you a line which follows the natural shape of your jawbone and ensure that the beard covers the bone. It should give the appearance of the beard "tucking in" under the jaw. How near or far from the bone you start to shave after you have made contact is a matter of personal choice. The important thing is that the jawbone is made to serve as both a barrier and guide. When viewed from below the line should have the appearance of an inverted "U" or "V".
One of the advantages of this technique is that it uses touch as well as sight. You feel with your razor where to place the line just as much as seeing it in the mirror. This removes the urge to juggle with two mirrors which is often the cause of disaster. Of course you can always use a second mirror to check up on what you have done, but you don't need to use it when actually shaving the neck.
If you don't feel fully confident before using this technique for the first time you can always give it a "dry run" with your razor without shaving anything. I suggested to one newbie that he did this and it seemed to have helped him to achieve a pretty good result.
In the early stages of growing a beard I usually recommend establishing the line fairly close behind the jawbone and then, if required, letting the line creep down as the beard lengthens. However, a high line may not suit everyone, especially those without a well defined jawline, in which case it is better to start shaving at a lower level.
I would again repeat that the above guidelines are only what I have found work for me and for many others to whom I have recommended them. There are plenty of other methods, string, bootlaces, neck creases, lines and curves etc etc. Take your pick.
wulff
